Female Brindle needs a home-someone please help!

Why buy from a breeder when there are plenty of homeless pups in shelters???

Postby cszymanski82 » Thu Oct 13, 2005 2:57 pm

Just checked it out, I'm going to buy a 150,000 stunner and see if that will help ease the g/f.......maybe it will cut out a few of my future scars too!


Postby cszymanski82 » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:04 pm

I just did a search for a 150k stun baton. I only found one 16" model, does anyone have any recommendations on where to get one?


Postby cszymanski82 » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:11 pm

One more question, if I use a stun baton on one of the dogs will it travel through to the other dog? What do I do if I use it on one dog and the other dog doesn't let go or rebites?

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Postby bahamutt99 » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:21 pm

The reading I did on stun guns/stun batons says that the electric current isn't supposed to travel from the target to anything else. So if a bad guy grabbed onto you, and you stunned 'em, you shouldn't be zapped. I'd imagine its the same with dogs.

It can be hard to break up two dogs going full-tilt. Easier with two people, naturally. Prevention would be a better course, naturally. But if you want your g/f to have something to more easily stop a fight if one should break out, it sounds like a stun baton is the way to go.


Postby slechner » Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:45 pm

wow, i hadn't read this thread until today and it really changed (in a really constructive way, i think) from the original post. good luck with dogs + g/f. i think the brindle coloration is...an acquired taste, so to speak.... i work in cat rescue and the toroiseshells are always the most difficult. especially the black torties. they just look a little 'different', not as photogenic. don't get me wrong, i love the brindles! but i also have to 'market' animals (initially) based on their looks and they're the toughest. and if they're adults?? nearly impossible.

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Postby JCleve86 » Thu Oct 13, 2005 5:30 pm

While I do believe the stun gun can be useful in extreme circumstances, I don't think it's a great idea to get one to break up every little tiff your dogs may get into. I mean...that's a lot of electricity going through the poor dogs every day!

Please read this, written by a person very involved with dog rescue and managing a multi-pit bull household (who, for the record, feels that with the proper know-how, stun guns aren't necessary). It's long, so break it up into sections to really absorb what your reading, but please, for the sake of your dogs, read (and understand) all of it.

I will say it's very encouraging to me that you are trying to think of things other than re-homing your dog. It really is EXTREMELY difficult to find a home for any pit bull, and brindle (or dark colored dogs) DO, indeed, have an even more difficult time being placed. Good Luck, and send your GF over to read this too!

I think that the best to to break up a fight is to prevent one. Any and all dogs can fight, and it is not responsible to expect a dog to get along with all dogs, all of the time. Dogs that have lived together peacefully can still fight suddenly, and being lax will give you a disadvantage; you will be less ready to handle it if a fight does happen.

Knowing how to calmly and responsibly (and quickly!) break up a fight is important for any dog owner, but especially so for those with multiple dog homes, those that own "bull type" dogs, and for people working with a rescue or shelter.

In our home, we have anywhere between 4 dogs and 16 at any time (granted, the high numbers have always included multiple puppies). Since we have a lot of Pit Bulls in our rescue, we have taken steps to limit fight risks as mush as possible and also know how to responsibly act (instead of reacting out of panic) if one does happen.

Having your dogs under basic voice control is helpful. This in no way will effect a serious fight, but having a dog understand "LEAVE IT", "HEY", "NO", "GO LAY DOWN", etc can assist in interrupting a tense situation or the starts of a scuffle. It can also help keep other dogs from jumping into a situation.

Like I mentioned; prevention. Since I always have a multiple-dog home consisting of three or more dogs, I do not feed dogs together. Dogs are fed in crates. They enjoy their meal more, as they are relaxed. I have found food to be one of the BIGGEST triggers, even for dogs that are otherwise not reactive or dog aggressive.

With multiple dogs, it may be wise to crate/seperate/move them elsewhere while the humans are dining. More than once I have had a scuffle between dogs over MY food, and I was too busy eating to realize that they were 'stank eyeing' eachother and that tension was building.

Toys can be triggers, as well. It is a good idea to watch play, even if the dogs have enjoyed sharing toys. Tension rises, and there is a breaking point; a stern "HEY" and removing the toy before that breaking point is very valuable. Even if you are not convienced that they would fight, it is better to "HEY" and remove the toy than waiting to see what the threshold is and what happens once it is crossed. The added benifit is that the dogs will get used to you stopping elevated play, and after a time will look to you when the tension starts to rise.

Fights can start over redirected excitement. Everyone can be playing happily and the excitement and activity level rises, until a scuffle happens. A stern "HEEEY" may break it up, but these scuffles can get fightening, as the dogs are already worked up, and often there are more than two ready to jump in and go at it. This can happen over a knock at the door, a strange dog being walked by, or a game with toys/running.

Knowing triggers, respecting that the dogs are dogs and will act like such, and learning how to recognize and break tension quickly is valuable.

I have crates and tie downs thoughout my house. THe tie downs are modest and hidden, but have saved my fanny, as I am often alone with dogs. If a something breaks out that a HEY cannot break up, the first thing I do is STOP. I act instead of reacting. Taking a second to look around and think can prevent a serious situation. I think "which dogs are here?" "which dogs are out?" "what do I know about the temperment of these dogs?" "where is my child at?" in a matter of a second or two. What I do next is influenced by the answer to these questions.

It is important for all kids in the house to know that if there is a dog scuffle or fight, they leave the room right away. Kids love to help A standing rule that kids go to their rooms if dog fight happens lets you focus on the situation withouth having to fear for the child's safety. Otherwise, the child comes first, dog fight be damned; make sure all children are safely away from the dogs before trying to break up a scuffle or fight.

If I have multiple dogs out, I try to remove them from the area right away. Having an extra adult at home really helps; they can crate/seperate other dogs while you break up the episode. If there is no other adult home, do not request a kid to do this. Some dogs get worked up around other worked up dogs (the redirective excitement thing that I mentioned above), and could pose a bite risk to the person holding the collar, or could once restrained attempt to snarkle at another dog. Anway, if alone, try to quickly get a door/gate/wall between the fighting dogs and the other dogs. Crate/tie down if reasonable.

Break sticks:

DO NOT GET HANDS IN THE WAY! After a grip has been broken, the dog may try to regrip right away. If a hand is in the way, it is likely to be bitten. I suggest breaking, and moving the other dog out as quickly as possible, or moving the dog that was broken to the side instantly.

Break sticks are a great tool. Some are made of wood and some plexiglass. You can make your own, as well. In a pinch, many daily objects can be used, like butter knives, screw drivers, a dust pan, a frying pan handle... whatever is cloest to you that can act as a strong wedge.

Break sticks are fantastic, if you can use them. Running into a dog fight with a break stick does youno good if the dogs are all over the place and not focusing on a grip hold. If the dogs are screaming and growling and biting eachother, you may still be able to break their attention enough to seperate them ( QUICKLY). If you seperate them, put them in crates, tie downs, etc - do not allow them together, even if they seem calm. They may just get started again, with fresh drive. Ways of getting attention my include a fog horn, a bucket of water, something flat that you can wack on their heads (without injuring them - think pizza box, plastic plate, etc).

A break stick does not break up a fight. A break stick breaks up a grip.

One way that I have successfully breaken up fights is by having one person stand behind a dog, with legs and knees AWAY from the dog's face (dogs get "sharky" in a fight an may blindly redirect and bite a human body part if it is near their face). They grab onto the BACK of the collar (the part of the neck where a mother dog would scruff a puppy; the dog cannot reach that part with his mouth; you want to stay smart and NOT get bit). I do the same thing with dog #2. We both pull backwards, keeping our knees slightly bent and lined up with our shoulders to remain balance (falling over backwards does not help break up a fight). We just keep backing up calmly and forcefully, with one person yelling "HEY" "LEAVE IT" "NO" "OFF" etc very loud, but as a command, not a frantic plea. Once we get enought of a break, we twist one dog to the side, and get that dog into a crate or tie down. Then dog number two goes into a crate. If I cannot get one of the dogs to let go, NOW is the time to "break" with a break stick or stand-in tool.

Another method is the choke-off. This is a personal favorite, as it gives me more control over the dog. When I am pulling a scuffle apart, I will twist the collar tightly, actually choking off the air flow to the dog. This is a quick and effective way to break attention and control the dog enough to scoot it into a crate/another room/ etc.

For a serious fight, I grab a broom or mop handle. I can twist that handle in the dog's collar several times, and step it to the ground. This gives me leverage, and the dog WILL choke off very quickly. If dog #2 is still attacking, I will keep my foot on the broom or mop handle, and either choke off or break dog #2, with any of the above mentioned methods.

If the collar breaks, or you need additional leverage, I suggest standing behind the dogs and placing the mop handle across the neck to the dog, and pulling backwards.

After a scuffle or fight, I crate right away. Assuming that the situation is not critical, I leave the dogs in a crate for an hour before attending to them - gives them a change to level out a bit.

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Postby Lixx » Thu Oct 13, 2005 6:26 pm

Personally I think it discusting that your friend suggests getting rid of your dog and not hers. She moved into your place correct? They should be seperated until she finds a new home for herself or her animal. Spliting up your family (yes, the dogs) is very unfair to you. I do not know the full situation surrounding this, but you opened your home to her with good intentions. This should not be at the sacrifice of someone already living there. Stand up for your girl, you are all she has.


Postby cszymanski82 » Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:42 am

Everytime a fight breaks out it is a serious one. I use the old grab the collar and twist method. It still takes a few minutes before they'll release and it cuts off my own circulation (not to mention I have a variety of scars to show off, including a pretty bad blood poisoning). Maybe I'll try a short broom handle next time with the break sticks. I would only get the stun baton for my g/f to use if she was home alone.

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Postby Kahlie » Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:51 am

I guess it's sweet to consider the gf - but if it were me, I'd end up picking my babies of my bf or his dog anyday. I'm with Lixx on this one! And not to sound harsh (if this does), but gf (bfs, whatever) come and go, but your dogs would always choose to be with you.

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Postby JCleve86 » Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:59 pm

Lixx wrote:Personally I think it discusting that your friend suggests getting rid of your dog and not hers. She moved into your place correct? They should be seperated until she finds a new home for herself or her animal. Spliting up your family (yes, the dogs) is very unfair to you. I do not know the full situation surrounding this, but you opened your home to her with good intentions. This should not be at the sacrifice of someone already living there. Stand up for your girl, you are all she has.

Really, if she's not capable of breaking up a fight, they should be completely seperated when your not there. Either her dog or yours needs to be crated, or kenneled, or somehow securely kept away from each other. (And this is not a put down on your GF at all, just a safety precaution)


Postby JustALovePuppy » Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:02 am

you know maybe instead of being scared ,do some research the pros and cons of this,where you dog might end up, what happens to FREE TO GOOD HOME DOGS.You should see in ontario the amount of dogs being put to sleep specially with this ban up going on.i This site is a great site to learn all about multiple dog homes, research it before you do anything ractional that you may regret.
I have a VERY DOG aggressive dog. she hates everything that walks talks, barks and crawls. she has attacked slim 3 times when they first met and has never done it since and it'll be a year come february. it took alot of time and plenty of work to adjust to living with another dog specially asince slim took to being dominate at first and xena was the dominate one so it didn't work for awhile, we kept them in seperate areas and eventually introduced them. Now they get along great, i even brought a puppy into the picture and xena took to it like it was her own. it takes time and patients and thats all you need to have. this wbsite will help you and the people will help you.

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